New listings are on the rise for Edmonton and area! Inventory levels are climbing due to an influx of new listings over the last couple months. Increasing 2026 inventory levels over 2025 and in the double digits! June 2026 had a slight peak in solds over May. However new inventory is outpacing the sales, providing buyers with more choices this summer.

For sellers, things are taking a bit longer to sell in 2026 verses 2025. With average sale prices having a slight drop from the market peak in May. We are still seeing areas holding the market aggression, like acreages and central / more mature communities. Sellers looking to sell this summer should be aware of their community and what its been doing for sales and activity and price accordingly. 

The pace is set for a spring market! The year’s highest levels of market activity will occur over the next two months!

Buyers can expect more options this spring as inventory continues to increase. May not be as aggressive in price increases as 2025 due to more options. However, there is still room for increase. So we will still see that with some communities where multiple offers are still occurring. 

2026 started off with more inventory and that continues! Buyers are starting to see a bit more options, but the market is still in favour of sellers in many areas. Multiple offers scenarios are occurring in pockets from city to acreage. Sellers looking for a quick sale may need to do a bit extra when they list to stand out. Pricing strategically against their competition will help to come out on top!

February 2026 was a bit stronger then February 2025, However, March 2026 prices verses 2025 a slight decrease for March values. Unless, your one of the properties that went in multiples! Easily can push a sale price $100 over list price, to $50,000-$100,000!

Interested in a community? Reach out to me or set up your search!

We hear so much about go green, solar, wind….. Well I’m Alberta, which climate wise can be mild, hot, to even extreme deep freeze. Where we are one of the coldest places on earth and -55! We also get insane amounts of snow fall, with winters being the dominant season some years.

Each year the government solar grant program changes, when I did my solar system it was a $10,000 grant at the time for a $30,000 system of 35 panels feeding into the grid. Installed on my roof of my house and garage, supplying a 1,450 sq ft bungalow. My monthly finance cost for the solar system is roughly $100 per month / $1,200 a year (so roughly 16.5 years of payment give or take). My property itself is very power intensive with need for the family home, but also animals, exterior buildings, lights, and water features. Winter my power bills are normal and late spring to early fall often my power bill is mainly paid for by the solar system.

1) Installation of panels, we live in Siberia at times with how extreme winter can be. Install your panels with the best incline for snow to run off & the easiest for you to manually clear if needed. Trust me, clearing snow from the driveway sucks! But clearing snow from your solar panels on your icy roof sucks even more. At the time my installer advised they place the panels flat for the best full day sun exposure for our climate. So the panels are getting as much light from sunrise to sunset. However, from experience now I would say definitely position your panels so snow will easily slide off. Or it’s easy for you to clean them off for optimal efficiency. You also want the panels accessible, so you can clean them annually. Which a clean after winter is important, think of it like a window. Can still see out but just not as good.   

2) Grid or Off Grid? Grid 110%!!! Unless maybe its a seasonal property with minimal consumption, or a cabin in the back of your quarter! Aside from my personal experiences, I’ve had numerous clients hate it and say doesn’t work in Alberta! I’ve yet to encounter anyone off grid, who stayed off grid in Alberta. It’s just to harsh of a climate and to large of a risk if you run out. Easily can have multiple dark days of snow with no solar production. 

3) Over do it with solar panels, in the end you will be happy you did! Honestly if they recommend 30 do 34 if the space permits. I wish I had of added a couple more, because even though in summer it covers over my usage and more. If you’re filling the space why leave 10% without panels when they are generating $. 

4) Distribution fees, I’m rural so unfortunately I’m subject to the extremely inflated distribution / regulatory fees. Yes we all have them but when you are rural you are hit with them in an extreme manner. To give an example, I live pretty much attached to the city within 5 minutes to city limits, so not rural really at all. Often Dec, Jan, February my power bills will be $800-$1,000! My usage is roughly only for $400-$500 monthly, with distribution being always higher than my use. 55/60% of my bill is the additional fees. In winter for solar production I might see a couple dollars here and there fed into that amount. But winter months expect for 0% production and bills like normal. However in the summer my bill is $50 - $150 and thats just what is left over on fees after my system pays all my usage + majority of the fees. So summer time I’m generating over my use and still have some sort of bill from fees.

5) What would I do different? I would install more panels then suggested. I would think and plan to place them in the best spot possible for snow run off and easy access to clean them for my property type. I’ve seen panels installed on walls with all day sun and would expect consistency of this in the end for annual generation, would be a bit better. As I feel the loss due to winter months due to snow coverage to be a con. However this also would depend on the pitch of your roof! 

#YEG #SOLAR #YEGREALTOR

Always a lot of back and forth with this topic. You get people from both sides with their stance on the matter, however here’s mine! Which I feel I make a good case!

Either way you have your cost of housing, may it be through rent or a mortgage. When you rent you are at the mercy of the market. Rental rates can increase when you are no longer locked into a lease, often fluctuation with the inflating cost of living. There are rules you must follow and you have the landlord to worry about! Hopefully they are good, hopefully they will keep up the property and as things break or need maintenance, they are on it. Hopefully they are satisfied with the amount your paying and wont increase at renewal. Hopefully they don’t want to sell, hopefully they give you your damage deposit back, hopefully, hopefully. Lots can change and is out of your control, when the one behind the wheel is not you! 

Now lets look ahead 25 years down the road. 25 years of paying $2,000 monthly rent = $600,000. After 25 years as a tenant nothing will have changed, your still going to have to pay rent. What about in 50 years, still rent! With how inflation is right now, at what rent was 10 - 15 years ago. You really think that your $2,000 rent will stay $2,000 for your decades to come? If you leave or want to move, there is no refund. You literally are paying into someone else’s investment! Why not pay into your own? Really ask yourself why? Even if you think you might want to move in couple years, then move. Sell it or rent it out! I have many clients whom purchased locally and now live abroad but have their properties rented out.

Where after 25 years of home ownership, your mortgage is now completely paid off. The amount you purchased the home for most likely has grown due to inflation, so now you have even more equity. Once you got to your 2nd or 3rd mortgage renewal you start to notice the monthly cost lowering. Which there’s also many ways to pay off your mortgage faster (biweekly payment, extra payments per year). Yes with ownership comes extra expenses. The cost of property insurance, property taxes, maintenance and repairs. Which even if you only got half the money you spent back all those years, or even 25%. It will always be far more the what you get as a renter. As renting is a return of $0. It’s also way easier to retire and live life when your rent is already paid off! 

You can even get savvy and become the landlord and have others pay towards your mortgage. I have many clients and friends whom live in their homes for free with income coming from their properties in some form. Now these days we see basement suites, garden suites, garage suites, room rentals, garage/shop rentals, land etc. Which the Canadian government in 2024 has even made 2 steps towards helping Canadians get funding with turning their properties into investment suites! If you can get onboard with rental income in some form on your property, your setting yourself up for something amazing! 

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Been thinking about homeownership but just don’t know where to start? 

First step, reach out to a mortgage broker or lender to understand what budget your income can potentially acquire and get your pre-approval reviewed/started! Employed & self employed are viewed completely differently. Factors like credit score, amount of debt and its ratio to what you make against the qualifying rates (stress test). All are keys to determining where your scenario stands. You may be ready to buy now or not just yet. However finding this out needs to be your first step. This sets your baseline of expectations and what you will be able to buy. As well makes sure you are ready to go, when you want to be. Nothing worst then waiting a year to buy and you don’t qualify because you never checked. Or you qualify but with the terms that are less than ideal due to things on your credit.

Mortgage brokers over lenders, who do I use? I prefer the broker route when it comes to lending, as often they go to bat for you harder and are also a bit more flexible to deal with. They don’t get paid until you get your mortgage. So I find they just work a bit harder for your business. As well, they often can acquire more competitive offers. They shop multiple lenders instead of 1. They have access to both A lenders and B lenders, and are free to use! A good broker / lender (when needed) will provide you the steps in order for you to qualify for what you want. So remember that when prequalifying yourself! If your not ready to buy just yet, your broker/lender should be giving you a “to do list” in the meantime to get you ready and help you achieve your approval. 

Next are actual funds needed to buy your home. You have to qualify for the mortgage and you need to have your downpayment. Which depending your scenario downpayment can be anywhere from 5% - 25% of the purchase price. Factors like self-employment, credit score/debts, type of property, value over $500,000, value over $1,000,0000… all are deciding factors of your downpayment. Which your mortgage broker/lender will let you know the details of this. You don’t pay the downpayment until you buy a place. However, you will need to show where the downpayment is coming from and that you have it. Once you do find a property and are locked into a pending offer. You’ll pay a deposit with your offer to purchase. Which is refundable if you decide to not waive conditions. Often this is due within 2 business days of your offer being accepted. This is part of the down payment and not on top of, so you will pull the money form that. You will also have your property inspections cost, which is normally $500 - $1,000 + depending what you are buying/inspecting (condo, house, acreage, outbuildings, wood fire place, size, etc…).You will also need funds for your lawyer which will include the land transfer cost. Which this often will range from $2,000 $3,000 give or take.

“First Time Home Buyers Program”. You will want to be aware of the government program allowing you to withdraw up to $60,000 from your RRSP without any tax implications! You then have 15 years to pay that amount back into your RRSP or you’re taxed on it. Repayment starts the second year from the year you withdrew. Which each year your contributing back to your RRSP, it’s counted towards your repayment. You actually save for a home much quicker this route, as the money being saved is not tax yet! Easily (whatever your tax bracket is) 35% faster using an RSP then using after tax dollars (regular savings, cash, TFSA). You also get a tax credit when you contribute to your RSP. I’ve had many clients take advantage of that and deposit their downpayment into their RSP. Creating the tax credit/refund next tax season. Then withdrawing it through the program. 

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